Plovdiv to Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Tuesday, May 20

We left lovely, art-filled, "Ancient and Eternal" Plovdiv and headed north through central Bulgaria on a sunny morning.  We skirted the Valley of Roses -- Bulgaria is responsible for 60% of the world's production of rose oil, and boutiques featuring rose-scented cosmetics and beauty products are frequent sights -- as we drove up through the Shipka Pass.  This was the site of the decisive battle in the Russo-Turkish War, fought in the name of Bulgarian independence.  Atop the pass is a massive monument, which overlooks battlefields and the valley far below.  We climbed up MANY steps to the massive tower and 360-degree views into the far distance.

Then, it was down the mountain and on to Veliko Tarnovo, medieval capital of the Second (of three) Bulgarian Republic, and today's destination.  We spent the afternoon climbing up to the Tsarevets Fortress, which dominates the town from its position HIGH on a hill above the river that snakes through the town.  It was a hot afternoon, and we were grateful for our convertible pants, and the chance to change them into shorts as we rose. 

 At the very top of the fortifications is a fully-restored church, part of the Patriarchs' Complex.  The church's interior is unlike any we've seen here -- like, so many others, its walls are highly decorated with murals, but these are modern expressionist in style, rather than traditional, almost monochromatic, rather than richly colored. 

 

After exploring the rest of the fortress -- mostly the foundations of its hundreds of houses, churches, monasteries, gates, shops, and more -- we headed down the hill and, under darkening skies, spent some time wandering around the old town on both sides of the Yantra River.  We walked to the city center in search of our happy hour necessities and then enjoyed some time on the balcony, with its view of the fortress across the river.

We had a terrific dinner of local specialties in a restaurant in the square at the foot of the fortress hill.  Once the sun set (at 8:45!), lights illuminating the fortress walls and church came on -- another delicious local specialty!

This is our last night in Bulgaria, a country that has surprised us with its natural beauty, lively cities, friendly people, speed-demon, risk-taking drivers, and frustratingly indecipherable alphabet.  Tomorrow we're off to Romania!